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Sunday 5 May 2024

Caramel (and some cheese)

It is said by the movies (and psychology textbooks, presumably) that women tend to go for men who remind them of their fathers. Being a middle-aged Bengali man with a love for Discovery and National Geographic, Ayan definitely fits the bill. But he also reminds me of other members of my family. He is as finicky as my sister, balking when I fall in bed while still wearing clothes, I have gone out in. He reminds me of my mother when he is being chatty with random strangers in the metro, at the mall, or in the voting queue. Sometimes, he even reminds me of my grandmother.

My memories of her, Dida, are inextricably linked to the seasons. And, as in any self-respecting Bengali family, with food. It isn’t even the elaborate cooked meals that come to mind now – except her prawn malai curry perhaps, but just the snacks we shared over evenings of adda and laughter, and the afternoons that went in preparing them.

Summers were spent sitting next to her as she sliced mangoes over her bothi, while I assiduously finished up the fruit on the seed. Later, when guests came around, plates of the diced fruit would be served up with glasses of Coke.

Monsoons were sweetened ‘labour tea’, with the milk boiled to an inadvisable extent, along with crispy shingara or chop supplied from VIP Sweets. Sometimes there was batter covered slices of onions and cauliflowers she fried at home.

Winters, mild as they were in Calcutta, involved more work. There was a whole process of boiling jaggery with water, then when it cooled down, using it to bind crisp puffed rice, into her famous moa. To be honest, it wasn’t a hit because of the taste. The USP was that tins of the moa could be brought back to Delhi, at the end of the winter break. And then nibbled at through the weeks, with milk in the evening, or offered up as proshad during the Saraswati Pujo my mother performed at home.

Eventually, Dida’s health deteriorated, the adda diminished, and the moa became store bought. I rarely sought one out to eat and thought about it even less.

Till one day at the movies. As I sat bored, munching on salted butter popcorn, my hands touched a sticky piece and I looked down, to notice a caramelized piece that had entered my tub by mistake. Unthinkingly, I put it in my mouth and immediately fell in love. The deliberate purchase of tubs of mixed caramelized and cheese popcorn is a movie going ritual now. But I didn’t make the connection with the homely comfort of moa for a few more months.

I was working from home in Bangalore on a listless summer afternoon, missing home, and dreading the multiple calendar-blocks I still had to cross before calling it a day. Ayan asked me if I wanted to eat a snack to ward off the boredom – that reliable way of putting back all the kilos lost at the gym. I agreed, but then shrugged at all the options he listed – grapes, makhana, momos. Finally, he saw my unenthused face and left me alone. But came back in 15 minutes with a bowl of –

“Popcorn”, he said.

I frowned ungratefully in response.

Then he placed the bowl in my hands, and it was not the usual pressure-cooker popped corns we had at home. He had decided to caramelize sugar and then lather the regular popcorn in that brown, gooey syrup. For caramel popcorn at home.